What PARTS do i neeD?  (Note: The parts requirements are EXACTLY the same for the base WRX as the Premium/Limited WRX!)

This parts list is for the 2015+ WRX.  For parts list and install details/changes for other models, scroll to the bottom of this page.

Parts List - All USDM Parts Option w/ approximate cost*

Parts can be ordered at your dealer or at any online parts store such as http://parts.bestbuysubaru.com/ (Heuberger's Online Parts Store).

84401AJ010 - LAMP ASSY TURN SDLH - $67.50 
84401AJ000 - LAMP ASSY TURN SDRH - $67.50 
91059VA030 - COVER CAP REPAIR LH - $36 
91059VA020 - COVER CAP REPAIR RH - $36 
91039AJ500 - MIRROR REPAIR SCR (Qty 4) - $3

Approximate Parts Total - $210 + shipping

Please note that the Cover Cap Repair part (the mirror cap) is UNPAINTED. You will need to pay a body shop to have the mirror cap painted to match the paint code on your car. To have this done at a local shop cost me $150 with a reasonably good result. Of course you will also need the harness available on my products page.  You don't actually HAVE to do this; you can splice into the wires in the door and rig something up to connect to the LED modules...but the harness allows for a proper installation, making it far easier AND weatherproof.

Approximate Cost for this mod including harness and cover cap paint job - $400

Pre-Painted JDM Cover Cap Option w/ approximate cost*

With the release of the JDM WRX S4, pre-painted cover caps are available from Japan.  While it may take a little longer to get your parts, you save money and get a PERFECT paint job on your cover caps to match your car.  I did NOT go this route, so your mileage may vary...but this is what I would do if I were doing this mod today.

You will still buy most of the parts listed in the section above, but Instead of buying the USDM Cover Cap Repair LH and Cover Cap Repair RH, you can buy one of the following prepainted mirror caps:

​ Japan Parts #333-002-001 - https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/45591 (choose the color of your car) - $140 shipped
Going this route will save you around $80 over buying the USDM cover caps and having them painted.  Definitely preferable if you can wait for the part.

Approximate Cost for this mod including harness and prepainted JDM cap- $325

OR for straight up ballers.....Japan Parts #333-002-002 - https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/45609 (Satin chrome) - $450 shipped
Going this route is for people who have too much money.  If that's you, you can impress all 3 people who are impressed by $400 pieces of plastic!  If you have this kind of scratch, you might as well just buy the complete STI mirrors for about $800 and call it a day.

Approximate Cost for this mod including harness and satin chrome JDM cap - $780

*Estimated Prices shown are based on online, not retail prices.


UPDATE:  One of my customers sent me a link to a great install video he found online made by one of my first customers.  Because he used my harness in the install, It's VERY helpful for anyone who is considering the mod using my method, and should help anyone who is not sure about what to do.  Here is the video:  https://youtu.be/zp9YxVGqbi0 - Many thanks to Jose for making this very good video and linking back to my site.  Perhaps Jose's video is the reason I have seen such solid demand for these harnesses!  

Subispeed has also released a video for the installation of their LED turn signal mirror that shows how to remove the mirror assembly from the car and run the wires: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBGMJ59dSBc

Unfortunately, they use ugly T-taps to wire in their LED mirror.  The good news is that if you want to buy their LED mirror, you will be able to easily tie their wires into my harness - it's super easy.  If you want to do this, i'd complete the harness install as normal leaving a bit of extra slack in the mirror cavity. Then you can either use a gel-filled vampire tap (having hard time finding any that would work on 22ga wire) or cut the harness wire and splice their wire into it using a 3M Scotchlok or similar three-conductor weatherproof splice.  Home Depot carries 'Ideal Insulation Displacement Wire Connectors' that should work - Model # 85-925, Store SKU # 125559.  If you are doing both at the same time you could also splice into the harness inside the door but if you ever have to replace the mirror due to failure, you will have to pull the door cards off again, so I'd suggest doing the splice in the mirror housing.

Anyway - On to business!  ​First of all, make sure you have all your parts together, and...

Review the general sequence of installation:

  • Remove the lower mirror trim (pull forward, NOT up), then the upper mirror trim (pull forward, NOT up - see tip #1 below)
  • Remove the door card (worst part of the whole deal) and disconnect all the wiring (see tip #2 and #3 below)
  • Peel back the plastic on the inside of the door 
  • Disconnect the mirror harness
  • Unbolt the mirror (three 10mm bolts) and remove it from the vehicle (see tip #4 below)
  • Take the mirror assembly to a clean work area and remove the insulating tape holding the rubber gasket to the wire sleeve
  • Slide the rubber gasket away from the mirror support
  • Push long zip tie into the metal tube entering the mirror assembly from the harness side.  Fish out the end of the zip tie and use some electrical tape to attach the terminal end of my harness.  I suggest laying down one terminal behind the other to keep the whole thing narrow for clearance.  Then pull the zip tie carefully to guide the terminals back down and out of the mirror assembly and through the rubber gasket.  (See tip #5 below)
  • Clean the terminals of tape residue using goo gone and install them into the mirror connector (see tip #6)
  • Fish the white connector through the back of the mirror assembly over to where the LED assembly will be (see tip #7)
  • Use 2 mirror repair screws to attach the LED assembly to the mirror frame.
  • Make sure the wire has enough slack inside the mirror so nothing is pulled tight
  • Use a bunch of electrical tape to wrap the harness wire up against the existing wiring bundle.
  • Slide the rubber gasket back up the wire bundle and replace the tape holding the rubber gasket to the wire sleeve
  • Optional: wrap the completed wire bundle in felt to prevent any rattles
  • Reinstall the mirror on the car with the three bolts removed earlier.
  • Plug in mirror to harness in door
  • TEST!!!  Just turn on your hazards; that's the easiest way.
  • Reposition door plastic and reinstall door card
  • Pop upper mirror trim (mirror cap) back onto mirror frame, then pop lower mirror trim back onto mirror frame.
  • Now repeat on the other side!

Does that sound like fun?  Refer to this post by clamsjager on NASIOC for pictures of the first few steps and an early YouTube video from before I started selling the harnsses:   http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=42287639&postcount=1

Go ahead and watch the YouTube video from that post (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqtSpJerlIY) for a general rundown on how to do the rest (after the pictures stop).  Kudos to clamsjager for making this video; without his efforts, it may have taken me quite a bit more time to figure all this out.

In clamsjager's video, many of the general steps above are followed, but he did not have a plug and play harness to do this so the details of the wiring are not covered in the video.   Follow the steps above with some help from the tips below and you should have a successful install!

Install tips/details/specifics:

  1. The lower and upper trim on the back of the mirror is quite easy to remove. It's easier if you are aware that basically all the tabs face forward....so both the lower and upper pieces remove REARWARD - toward the front the car, NOT up.

  2. I found that it was easiest to remove the door card by starting on top inside, above the speaker near where the mirror is, and then move down and across and finally end on the far outside.

  3. There are 8 clips. Two are close together where you should start - near the mirror - one of those is inboard about 8 inches or so from the edge. The remaining 7 are around the perimeter.  Be firm and steady; don't 'yank'.

  4. Be careful not to drop the bolts. There's enough room to use your finger to hold the bolts on the socket so they don't drop into the door.

  5. Once the mirrors are off the car, you don't have to disassemble them at all. Use a zip tie with the end cut off to probe into the metal conduit that runs into the mirror. Feel for it with your fingers and pull it up and out of the first 'window' into the mirror assembly. Then electrical tape your harness/wires to that zip tie and pull the whole thing back down through the conduit. this was no problem even with those terminals already on the wire. Then you can electrical tape the new wires to the existing sheath. Don't forget to use electrical tape to wrap the wires/sheath and seal off around the rubber weatherproof 'nipple' that sticks out from the rubber layer that sits between the car and the mirror. 

  6. You will need Goo Gone to get the electrical tape residue off the terminals. The goo will make the terminals not slide into the white mirror connector.  Here's how to install the terminals into the mirror connector: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=39677917&postcount=81  From the linked post, you'll see that the harness for the base model is different from that of the premium/limited, but the turn signal pins DO exist in both types of harnesses. For the base trim, you'll use the 8-pin specification for 'without heated mirrors', and for premium/limited, you'll use the 10-pin 'with heated mirrors' specification.  In both cases, it's essentially the two pins on the very right of the connector looking at it from the backside with pin 1 at the top right position. Because the harness is designed with L and R versions, the terminals plug into the mirror connector the SAME way on both sides for simple installation.  The picture in the post above shows white and green wire.  If you received a harness that is not white and green, see the products page to see which wire is positive and which is negative. 

  7. Here are some great posts courtesy of DomozitoLK that show what the inside of the mirror is going to look like when the wiring is run correctly:
    (Disregard the comments about the wiring being 'backward' - Subaru did not flip the wires at the LED connector in the STI mirror assembly.  This means that the wire must be flipped at the door connector, which is the case for STI assembly from Subaru (see second post).  However, for purposes of this mod, I flipped the wires in my harness ALREADY for ease of installation (thats why they are labeled R and L)- As a result of me having done this already, the drivers side and passenger side harnesses will both install into the mirror harness the same way.  See tip #6 above.

Notes regarding installation in 2010-2014 WRX/STI:

  • Many thanks to David G. for trying this out on his WRX.  These instructions are based on his experience.  I will not be able to provide any assistance as I do not own a 2010-2014 WRX/STI.
  • Model year 2010-2014 mirror must be removed to access tabs to release cap.  On 2015+ models, the cap comes off with the mirror on the car.
  • Polarity is the reverse on these models, so follow the directions for the 2015 models but use the LEFT harness on the RIGHT side of your car, and use the RIGHT harness on the LEFT side of your car.   Alternatively, you can flip the wires (use white where the 2015 models use green, etc).
  • Models with heated mirrors will have the same connector as the 2015 WRX Premium/Limited so follow the instructions for that model
  • Models without heated mirrors will have the same connector as the 2015 WRX Base so follow the instructions for that model.
  • Required Part Numbers:
    Mirror covers w/ signal - 91054AG100 (right), 91054AG110 (left)  - $38.74ea
    Signal Lens (LED) - 84401AG060 (right), 84401AG070 (left)  - $65.86ea
    LED Screws (need to order 4, that's 2/side) - 91039AJ500  - $0.54ea.


Custom products and info for 2015+ WRX Owners