This parts list is for the 2015+ WRX. For parts list and install details/changes for other models, scroll to the bottom of this page.
Parts List - All USDM Parts Option w/ approximate cost*
Parts can be ordered at your dealer or at any online parts store such as http://parts.bestbuysubaru.com/ (Heuberger's Online Parts Store).
84401AJ010 - LAMP ASSY TURN SDLH - $67.50
84401AJ000 - LAMP ASSY TURN SDRH - $67.50
91059VA030 - COVER CAP REPAIR LH - $36
91059VA020 - COVER CAP REPAIR RH - $36
91039AJ500 - MIRROR REPAIR SCR (Qty 4) - $3
Approximate Parts Total - $210 + shipping
Please note that the Cover Cap Repair part (the mirror cap) is UNPAINTED. You will need to pay a body shop to have the mirror cap painted to match the paint code on your car. To have this done at a local shop cost me $150 with a reasonably good result. Of course you will also need the harness available on my products page. You don't actually HAVE to do this; you can splice into the wires in the door and rig something up to connect to the LED modules...but the harness allows for a proper installation, making it far easier AND weatherproof.
Approximate Cost for this mod including harness and cover cap paint job - $400
With the release of the JDM WRX S4, pre-painted cover caps are available from Japan. While it may take a little longer to get your parts, you save money and get a PERFECT paint job on your cover caps to match your car. I did NOT go this route, so your mileage may vary...but this is what I would do if I were doing this mod today.
You will still buy most of the parts listed in the section above, but Instead of buying the USDM Cover Cap Repair LH and Cover Cap Repair RH, you can buy one of the following prepainted mirror caps:
Japan Parts #333-002-001 - https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/45591 (choose the color of your car) - $140 shipped
Going this route will save you around $80 over buying the USDM cover caps and having them painted. Definitely preferable if you can wait for the part.
Approximate Cost for this mod including harness and prepainted JDM cap- $325
OR for straight up ballers.....Japan Parts #333-002-002 - https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/45609 (Satin chrome) - $450 shipped
Going this route is for people who have too much money. If that's you, you can impress all 3 people who are impressed by $400 pieces of plastic! If you have this kind of scratch, you might as well just buy the complete STI mirrors for about $800 and call it a day.
Approximate Cost for this mod including harness and satin chrome JDM cap - $780
*Estimated Prices shown are based on online, not retail prices.
UPDATE: One of my customers sent me a link to a great install video he found online made by one of my first customers. Because he used my harness in the install, It's VERY helpful for anyone who is considering the mod using my method, and should help anyone who is not sure about what to do. Here is the video: https://youtu.be/zp9YxVGqbi0 - Many thanks to Jose for making this very good video and linking back to my site. Perhaps Jose's video is the reason I have seen such solid demand for these harnesses!
Subispeed has also released a video for the installation of their LED turn signal mirror that shows how to remove the mirror assembly from the car and run the wires: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBGMJ59dSBc
Unfortunately, they use ugly T-taps to wire in their LED mirror. The good news is that if you want to buy their LED mirror, you will be able to easily tie their wires into my harness - it's super easy. If you want to do this, i'd complete the harness install as normal leaving a bit of extra slack in the mirror cavity. Then you can either use a gel-filled vampire tap (having hard time finding any that would work on 22ga wire) or cut the harness wire and splice their wire into it using a 3M Scotchlok or similar three-conductor weatherproof splice. Home Depot carries 'Ideal Insulation Displacement Wire Connectors' that should work - Model # 85-925, Store SKU # 125559. If you are doing both at the same time you could also splice into the harness inside the door but if you ever have to replace the mirror due to failure, you will have to pull the door cards off again, so I'd suggest doing the splice in the mirror housing.
Anyway - On to business! First of all, make sure you have all your parts together, and...
Review the general sequence of installation:
Does that sound like fun? Refer to this post by clamsjager on NASIOC for pictures of the first few steps and an early YouTube video from before I started selling the harnsses: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=42287639&postcount=1
Go ahead and watch the YouTube video from that post (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqtSpJerlIY) for a general rundown on how to do the rest (after the pictures stop). Kudos to clamsjager for making this video; without his efforts, it may have taken me quite a bit more time to figure all this out.
In clamsjager's video, many of the general steps above are followed, but he did not have a plug and play harness to do this so the details of the wiring are not covered in the video. Follow the steps above with some help from the tips below and you should have a successful install!
The lower and upper trim on the back of the mirror is quite easy to remove. It's easier if you are aware that basically all the tabs face forward....so both the lower and upper pieces remove REARWARD - toward the front the car, NOT up.
I found that it was easiest to remove the door card by starting on top inside, above the speaker near where the mirror is, and then move down and across and finally end on the far outside.
There are 8 clips. Two are close together where you should start - near the mirror - one of those is inboard about 8 inches or so from the edge. The remaining 7 are around the perimeter. Be firm and steady; don't 'yank'.
Be careful not to drop the bolts. There's enough room to use your finger to hold the bolts on the socket so they don't drop into the door.
Once the mirrors are off the car, you don't have to disassemble them at all. Use a zip tie with the end cut off to probe into the metal conduit that runs into the mirror. Feel for it with your fingers and pull it up and out of the first 'window' into the mirror assembly. Then electrical tape your harness/wires to that zip tie and pull the whole thing back down through the conduit. this was no problem even with those terminals already on the wire. Then you can electrical tape the new wires to the existing sheath. Don't forget to use electrical tape to wrap the wires/sheath and seal off around the rubber weatherproof 'nipple' that sticks out from the rubber layer that sits between the car and the mirror.
You will need Goo Gone to get the electrical tape residue off the terminals. The goo will make the terminals not slide into the white mirror connector. Here's how to install the terminals into the mirror connector: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=39677917&postcount=81 From the linked post, you'll see that the harness for the base model is different from that of the premium/limited, but the turn signal pins DO exist in both types of harnesses. For the base trim, you'll use the 8-pin specification for 'without heated mirrors', and for premium/limited, you'll use the 10-pin 'with heated mirrors' specification. In both cases, it's essentially the two pins on the very right of the connector looking at it from the backside with pin 1 at the top right position. Because the harness is designed with L and R versions, the terminals plug into the mirror connector the SAME way on both sides for simple installation. The picture in the post above shows white and green wire. If you received a harness that is not white and green, see the products page to see which wire is positive and which is negative.
Here are some great posts courtesy of DomozitoLK that show what the inside of the mirror is going to look like when the wiring is run correctly:
(Disregard the comments about the wiring being 'backward' - Subaru did not flip the wires at the LED connector in the STI mirror assembly. This means that the wire must be flipped at the door connector, which is the case for STI assembly from Subaru (see second post). However, for purposes of this mod, I flipped the wires in my harness ALREADY for ease of installation (thats why they are labeled R and L)- As a result of me having done this already, the drivers side and passenger side harnesses will both install into the mirror harness the same way. See tip #6 above.
Notes regarding installation in 2010-2014 WRX/STI: